6" T&G Oak flooring question - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

**Leo G** · 03-06-2009, 10:33 AM

Just had a GC friend of mine call asking about the method of putting a 6" T&G floor down. I guess his flooring guy said that it needed to be screwed and plugged and the GC thinks that is a lot of extra work, just wasn't planning on it in the bid I guess. What would be the proper (standard) way to lay the 6" floor down. FYI random length up to 7', 3/4" thick.

Thanks.

WarnerConstInc. · 03-06-2009, 11:09 AM

Follow normal protocol on that floor. Only time I see something else needed is with really wide boards 10-12". Then they usually suggest a bit of glue under them. Big wide boards almost need face nails as well.

6" wide oak should be just like other narrower hardwood floors.

Floordude · 03-06-2009, 02:19 PM

In the days long ago, when we did not have the polyurethane adhesives we have today, plank flooring 4" and wider, was suppose to be screwed and pegged on the end joints. Plank wood flooring, has a tendency to cup, and crown, without the presents of moisture.

Beads of good polyurethane adhesive, now serves the same purpose as the screws, that needed pegging.

the big 12 inch · 03-06-2009, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leo G

Just had a GC friend of mine call asking about the method of putting a 6" T&G floor down. I guess his flooring guy said that it needed to be screwed and plugged and the GC thinks that is a lot of extra work, just wasn't planning on it in the bid I guess. What would be the proper (standard) way to lay the 6" floor down. FYI random length up to 7', 3/4" thick.

Thanks.

Iv'e layed 6" many times...get it on the job and rack it out,let it sit for a week or better,nail it down the standard schedule,let it sit another 2-3 weeks in a controlled climate,sand and finish....Thats how I would do it...But I'm not in Conn. either...good luck..

ChicagoDave · 03-07-2009, 11:43 AM

Basically what was stated above. But we usually use 4" as the cut-off point for glue AND nail. (Anything less than 4", nail only is good. Anything over 4", you want to glue and nail to prevent cupping/crowning from moisture 'issues'.

**Leo G** · 03-07-2009, 11:59 AM

OK, got a question of my own. I've done flooring 3 times in my life, all for family. I have always put down a layer of 30# felt paper and then the flooring goes on top. Used it for a moisture barrier. Now, if you need to put down poly glue, do you still use the barrier? Obviously if you glue it to the paper it will do nothing. So, I know he is going to ask, when using the glue, do you use no barrier?

the big 12 inch · 03-07-2009, 12:12 PM

15lb. felt is plenty for moisture barrier....someone else will have to chime in on the glue technique...I never use glue on nail down jobs...

**Leo G** · 03-07-2009, 12:33 PM

It's been a while, it probably was 15#. Thanks

Floordude · 03-07-2009, 10:56 PM

First off, asphalt impregnated roofing felt, is not a moisture barrier. It will retard moisture and slow down the transfer, but it does not eliminate moisture vapors passing through.

Your going to have to get something with a much greater perm rating, to be classified as a moisture barrier.

When you use glue, you don't use felt. The moisture barrier needs to be in the crawl space.

**Leo G** · 03-07-2009, 10:58 PM

Thanks FloorDude. This is going in a house with a basement.

I'll let him know about this thread, thanks guys.

jamestrd · 03-08-2009, 12:02 AM

skim coat cutback adhesive over subfloor, roll 15lb felt into it. then strip glue every 12" and nail...floor will never move.

did this with 8" walnut and 9"oak...floor still flat, tight and solid.

old school, but hey, it works...cutback and felt cheaper than any adhesive out there.

mrghm · 03-08-2009, 02:13 AM

over here in Australia any floor over 4in gets top nailed we use ND or T nails driven from a bradder.

for 6in you would have 2 nails every 450mm for 8in it would be 3 nails.