1000' Ceramic Tile - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

woodbutchr · 02-05-2009, 01:01 PM

I have about 1000 ft. of 16" x 16" Ceramic tile to lay inside a store. There is Berber carpet glued down to a painted concrete floor now. When the carpet is pulled up, what special prep do I need to do to make sure the thinset will adhere to the floor properly?

I was thinking that since the floor is painted that the thinset would be a problem but there is glue already on it now with the carpet?

Do I need to use a special adhesive for this application? Does the carpet glue have to come completely off the floor prior to installing the tile?

I don't know the condition of the floor right now since the carpet is still down but according to past experiences with this place, it should be in great shape.

I appreciate it guys. I play with wood most of the time but right now I just can't pass this job up. It's inside and it's WORK!

detroitMi · 02-05-2009, 01:14 PM

yeah

AutumnWood Inc. · 02-05-2009, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by detroitMi

yeah

Informative post, you must also be trying to get to P&R section

Mellison · 02-05-2009, 05:17 PM

When in doubt always use Latapoxy 300 by Laticrete.
Expensive. But not nearly as expensive as a call back.

kevjob · 02-05-2009, 07:26 PM

try to remove all the glue residue as much as possible to get a good bond to concrete, flat trowel backsides of tiles and use a medium bed for those heavy suckers.

We Fix Houses · 02-05-2009, 07:36 PM

Kneepads

Alieve

rbsremodeling · 02-05-2009, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by We Fix Houses

Kneepads

Alieve

Vodka mixed with grape gatorade

We Fix Houses · 02-05-2009, 08:03 PM

On another note be sure to have an understanding of addl unknown prep for this job . Sounds like there may be remnants of glue that need to be addressed. Consider a dustless drum sander from the rental store with #40 - #60 grit belts. Vac and light mop. Run heat and fan prior to working.

The proper thinset is determined by the absorption rate of the tile and substrate. The slab is now not going to have much of an absorption rate. Porcelain and quarry tile have significantly less absorption rates than "ceramic tile". Thus you must use a modified / epoxy thinset. As Mellison said Latapoxy 300 may be a good choice. These types of products only have a limited pot life. You can spend 15 - 20 min / hr just scraping out and mixing in a bucket. Use a dw mixer and 1/2" drill. You'll need a helper.

I have called both Laticrete and Custom tech support on occasion. The guys I've talked to are very helpfull with hands on information and years of experience. Sometimes you have to leave a mesage on their vm but they will call you back.

If you dont already know about this site check it out. http://johnbridge.com/

Hope this helps

Addl - Get a clear understanding of your joint width 1/4 or 3/8 etc. if they don't know? I always set up a sample board (1/4 and 3/8) for approval even if I have to buy 20 tiles myself beforehand. If you measure a 3/8 width from another store it may be 1/4 because it may come out to look like 3/8. Layout 3/8 and it may look like 1/2 after it's all finished depending on the tile. Tiles can also be modular meaning your 16" will actually be 15 5/8.....you think a 3/8 joint will be the right one.....The joint may look too big after its in. Thats a mistake I made in the past.

Bud Cline · 02-05-2009, 09:17 PM

Amazing!!!

MALCO.New.York · 02-05-2009, 09:31 PM

Why are we beating up "The Butcher"?????

He is CERTAINLY "One of Us"!!!!

72chevy4x4 · 02-05-2009, 10:07 PM

getting all of the glue up can be a bugger. Any remnants would be a real pain when trowling out the mortar. A tile scraper with a sharp blade should get most of it up.

woodbutchr · 02-05-2009, 10:28 PM

Appreciate it fellers, I was basically looking for the proper thinset to use. The contractor I'm doin' it for will have his grunts do the carpet removal & floor prep, just double checkin' on that part.

Like I said, I play with wood mostly. I've done several cookie cutter tile jobs like Bathrooms, Kitchens and Showers but never a larger commercial job like this.

Nuthin' ventured, nuthin' gained.

Floordude · 02-05-2009, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodbutchr

There is Berber carpet glued down to a painted concrete floor now.

You will need to get it back down to bare concrete. that means the glue & paint must go.

Bud Cline · 02-06-2009, 12:38 AM

FINALLY!

deadjed · 02-10-2009, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbsremodeling

Vodka mixed with grape gatorade

Hehehehe

!

R&D Tile · 02-12-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floordude

You will need to get it back down to bare concrete. that means the glue & paint must go.

Yup, have fun.

Ford Guy · 02-13-2009, 12:56 PM

try a floor maintainer. they cost about the same to rent as the drum sander but they work twice as well. They are like a huge random orbit sander.

b2dap · 02-18-2009, 10:02 AM

Check out this Tile Floor Stripper by EDCO (ts-8 tile shark). This would definitely do the trick!! I used a similar model to do a floor about 3 months ago, worked like a charm!

p1grinder · 02-18-2009, 03:58 PM

i've allways used a 7" grinder with concrete wheel, dust shroud and vac. it sounds like a lot of work grinding on ur knees but it's the best.

Floordude · 02-18-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2dap

Check out this Tile Floor Stripper by EDCO (ts-8 tile shark). This would definitely do the trick!! I used a similar model to do a floor about 3 months ago, worked like a charm!

I'd like to have one of those multi-head, planitary gear, concrete eating, monsters.

National Equipment has one, and Taylor tools has an attachment for a floor buffer, or use their Extreme Machine.