1,000 questions about laminate - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

dianna · 06-18-2006, 11:10 AM

A very pretty girl asked me to help her install a floating floor and though I have done work with tile and hardwood have never installed a laminate flooring. It's a small room of 10x12 and a hallway from that. The existing flooring is carpet over concrete slab...here are my questions:
1) do I need to install visqueen as a vapor barrier, or does the underlayment serve as a vapor barrier?
2) does the laminate flooring need to acclimate like hardwood does, or is it something that we can bring home and slap down?
3) She insists that we don't need to remove the baseboards because there is space from the carpet, but how do we keep the expansion space consistent and is this a bad idea overall?
4) What is the best way to transition in the doorways ( there are five)?
5) The sunlight comes from a big bay window perpendicular to the hallway...shouldn't we run the "planks" parallel with the hallway, regardless of the sunlight?
Okay, not a thousand questions, but plenty and important, no?

PrecisionFloors · 06-18-2006, 08:10 PM

Post pics of this very pretty girl and we may be able to help you

Nah just kiddin. To answer your questions in order:

1. Depends on the underlayment being used...some are a 2 or 3 in one that include a moisture barrier, others don't.

2. YES YES & YES

3. No you do not *have* to remove the base, however it would probably make it easier for a beginner to install. As far as consistent expansion space, use spacers (big boxes sell em or fashion your own with some scrap wood and a table saw)

4. You can also buy transitions at the box stores, you may have to special order them to match your flooring. Another option, which I use on all of my installs, is to use unfinished oak or maple hardwood transition and stain and poly them to math the laminate. You will have to go to a real lumberyard or hardwood flooring supply shop for these.

5. Typically hallways are done parallel but in all reality its subjective opinion of the homeowner that prevails.

Good luck and hope that helps.

**Teetorbilt** · 06-18-2006, 08:35 PM

Repeat! I always seal the concrete. The stuff dries fast and you can do 2 coats in a day easily.

The vapor barrier can be most anything. I like the Armstrong 2-in-1. Seams should be sealed with a good poly tape.

The flooring MUST be acclimated prior to install. If you are using a highly figured flooring, it's time to assess and stack. You need to know how much of each print that you have so that you can space them properly.

You can buy the spacers or use anything that is about 1/4" if the room is small.

I like to remove the base as it provides a more finished look. IMHO, Shoe moulding or 1/4 round just screams BS job. I always offer a base upgrade, more money in the pocket and a better looking job.

Transitions can be bought or made as Precision said. If I can't get away with the factory T's, I crank them out. Most of their other configs are brutal.

dianna · 06-19-2006, 06:27 AM

You guys are awesome...thanks for your advice.

06-19-2006, 09:29 AM

I am thinking about getting my basement done with laminate flooring. Is that usually a good idea: Larger variance in temp., more hard traffic ie parties etc.

I would like to save the money over wood flooring and the upstairs is already laminate. I just want to be sure that I am not making a mistake.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

**Floorwizard** · 06-19-2006, 10:08 PM

Laminate is fine for that area.
in fact it can take more damage than wood.

**Teetorbilt** · 06-19-2006, 11:19 PM

I was back in a home that I did about 5 yrs. ago with Pergo Prestige. 9 kids + fiends and animals + pool. The flooring is perfect. Spelling is bad, too much SRV. I'm still rockin'!