<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum - Finish Carpentry</title>
		<link>http://www.contractortalk.com</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:58:49 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.contractortalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum - Finish Carpentry</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Which is the Best Newel Post Fastener?</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/best-newel-post-fastener-68434/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:22:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I will be starting a job soon where the newels at the top of a stairway can not be bolted though the side into the framing of the landing. I am considering on using either  
  
(1) Fas-n-fast (2" diameter bolted connenction) 
(2) Sure-tite (axial through bolt fasterners) 
(3) L-bracket style...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Helv"><font size="2"><font face="Helv"><font size="2">I will be starting a job soon where the newels at the top of a stairway can not be bolted though the side into the framing of the landing. I am considering on using either <br />
 <br />
(1) Fas-n-fast (2&quot; diameter bolted connenction)<br />
(2) Sure-tite (axial through bolt fasterners)<br />
(3) L-bracket style fasteners coverved with molding<br />
 <br />
Which of these fastener types would be strongest to use for a top of stair newel that is only supported be a railing on one side?<br />
</font></font></font></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>dbarnett</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/best-newel-post-fastener-68434/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sitebuilt stairs - techniques</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/sitebuilt-stairs-techniques-68378/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:41:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Take a look a this picture, and ignore the way the detail implies the use of t&g floor finish for the tread and riser finish. 
Image: http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&guid=679DDDAF-2B42-48A5-A1DE-23367EB4C93D&frames=no  
I want to ask about two things, the steel hanger...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Take a look a this picture, and ignore the way the detail implies the use of t&amp;g floor finish for the tread and riser finish.<br />
<img src="http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&amp;guid=679DDDAF-2B42-48A5-A1DE-23367EB4C93D&amp;frames=no" border="0" alt="" /><br />
I want to ask about two things, the steel hanger clipping the carriages to the landing header, and the use of plywood substrate under both tread and riser.<br />
Having only built a few of these, my method has been to use a full-width sheet of 3/4 plywood as the hanger for carriages, and the finish tread and riser parts are fixed directly to the carriages, with no sheetgoods substrates on there first.<br />
What do you do, and why?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>UpNorth</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/sitebuilt-stairs-techniques-68378/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Lumicor</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/lumicor-68357/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:18:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>OK, what is this stuff? It was mentioned in conversation today and from the sounds of it, sounds very, very expensive. 
 
The conversation mentioned something about branches in the panel and other things???? 
 
Edit, OK, found out at least the website. Interesting. 
 
http://www.lumicor.com/ 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>OK, what is this stuff? It was mentioned in conversation today and from the sounds of it, sounds very, very expensive.<br />
<br />
The conversation mentioned something about branches in the panel and other things????<br />
<br />
Edit, OK, found out at least the website. Interesting.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.lumicor.com/" target="_blank">http://www.lumicor.com/</a><br />
<br />
Check out the countertop<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.lumicor.com/images/product_images/main_1213304155.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>framerman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/lumicor-68357/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Just a thought... on tall crown</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/just-thought-tall-crown-68334/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:09:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hypothetical situation we've all run across:  
Crown moulding is too tall to cut nested in the upsidedown/backwards orientation. 
 
Typical solutions: 
1. Excuse to go buy a bigger saw :clap: 
 
or... 
 
2. Cut it on the flat having to adjust both the miter and the bevel]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hypothetical situation we've all run across: <br />
Crown moulding is too tall to cut nested in the upsidedown/backwards orientation.<br />
<br />
Typical solutions:<br />
1. Excuse to go buy a bigger saw :clap:<br />
<br />
or...<br />
<br />
2. Cut it on the flat having to adjust both the miter and the bevel<br />
<br />
Possible alternative solution:<br />
Build a cradle that holds the crown nested so that it's flipped only 90 degrees and with the left-right orientation consistent with how it will go up on the wall (i.e. let the fence of the saw represent the plane of the ceiling while the table of the saw represents the wall). Then make your cut with the saw's miter angle at zero and the <i>bevel</i> tilted to 45 degrees (or 22.5, or any other angle required to make it around the corner).<br />
<br />
<br />
I can't see a geometrical reason that this wouldn't work. It obviously wouldn't help you with a crown that has a 45 degree spring angle, but it might get you the extra height you need with a 38/52 crown. I think I'd rather do this than have to mess with re-adjusting <i>both</i> the miter and bevel angles every time I had to change the cut...<br />
<br />
Is this already common practice? Is it a stupid idea? Is it a decent tool to keep in the bag of tricks when the need arises?<br />
<br />
What do you think?<br />
<br />
Jeremy</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>Jeremy E</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/just-thought-tall-crown-68334/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>cutting crown</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/cutting-crown-68298/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:38:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Do you cut your crown upside down or flat on the saw.  
  
Give me your reason in using your techniche 
  
Thanks much</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Do you cut your crown upside down or flat on the saw. <br />
 <br />
Give me your reason in using your techniche<br />
 <br />
Thanks much</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>fitadude</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/cutting-crown-68298/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>False Backs</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/false-backs-68296/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:09:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Has anyone done any sort of false back, or hidden drawers, or something along these lines. 
 
My father has done a few in the past, whether it be in a desk, or in a cabinet, but doesnt have any pictures, Id really like to see some ideas of something of this sort.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone done any sort of false back, or hidden drawers, or something along these lines.<br />
<br />
My father has done a few in the past, whether it be in a desk, or in a cabinet, but doesnt have any pictures, Id really like to see some ideas of something of this sort.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[HitchC&L]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/false-backs-68296/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2x6 Rail Install</title>
			<link>http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/2x6-rail-install-68257/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:37:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Nothing too fancy here.  Plowed Oak 2x6 rail with oak 2x4 mounting blocks.  There is a tip here... a simple 2-piece rail holding jig for solo installing.  The jig is just clamped to the 2x4 block and then insert the rail and hold in place with another clamp and attach.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Nothing too fancy here.  Plowed Oak 2x6 rail with oak 2x4 mounting blocks.  There is a tip here... a simple 2-piece rail holding jig for solo installing.  The jig is just clamped to the 2x4 block and then insert the rail and hold in place with another clamp and attach.</div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Thumbnails</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			
<a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/25322d1258425338-2x6-rail-install-simple-rail-holder-jig.jpg" rel="Lightbox_809512" id="attachment25322" target="_blank"><img class="thumbnail" src="http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/25322d1258425338t-2x6-rail-install-simple-rail-holder-jig.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	Simple Rail Holder Jig.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	55.9 KB
ID:	25322" /></a>
&nbsp;

<a href="http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/25324d1258425413-2x6-rail-install-rail-ready.jpg" rel="Lightbox_809512" id="attachment25324" target="_blank"><img class="thumbnail" src="http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/25324d1258425413t-2x6-rail-install-rail-ready.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	Rail Ready.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	45.2 KB
ID:	25324" /></a>
&nbsp;

			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			<img class="attach" src="http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/25323d1258425382-2x6-rail-install-rail-holder-clamped.jpg" border="0" alt="" />&nbsp;
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/">Finish Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>basswood</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/2x6-rail-install-68257/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
