http://www.contractortalk.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:02:59 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.contractortalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.contractortalk.com http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/hardwood-cupping-68436/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:37:34 GMT Recently delivered 2 cartons of 5" pre-finished red oak "cabin grade" hardwood to a job site to allow acclimation. Only 2 cartons because we were planning on replacing some boards that had been damaged as a result of cupping. All indications were that the original floor was not properly acclimated prior to installation. I'm aware of what normally causes cupping and although we disputed the proper acclimation finding, we couldn't prove otherwise. The house is infrequently occupied, air heat and cooling, timber frame with insulated panel exterior. Super tight home, HRV set to run intermittently and vent the baths.

The bands were removed from the carton and the boxes cut open. 2 weeks later I returned to take moisture readings and discovered every board cupped, throughout the box. Moisture read 8-10%, as did all the other wood in the house. Returning the wood to a super dry environment has all but eliminated the cup, still is slight. Less than 6% moisture content, lowest reading on my meter.

RH in the house is elevated, but not extreme, 50-60%.

Original floor remains cupped, but acceptable to the Owner, thankfully with the exception of a few boards.

Basically, unless I dry the house to what I would consider an unhealthy level, I am unable to acclimate this wood.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I'm beginning to question the reasoning for the initial cupping.

Could the wood be too dry before the finish was applied?

Thanks in advance.
]]> Flooring RichieBates http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/hardwood-cupping-68436/ http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/electric-radiant-slab-68273/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:56:26 GMT Hello everyone, new here with some questions.

I have a customer who has a room (140sf) that is now a den but wants to turn into a bedroom for her mother. The room is on a slab on grade with thin cork tiles on top. She has expressed a want to eliminate the cold floor "feel" she is currently getting. The main heat source in the room is forced air and seems to be adequate for the room although the ceiling is under a flat roof and will definitely get much needed re-insulation. She thinks she wants electric radiant under the floor. The new finished flooring can't be much higher than 3/4" to 1" from existing hence electric versus hydronic. Her finished flooring preferences would exclude w/w carpeting, maybe wood/laminate and could be tile knowing the heat mass collecting benefits associated with but still would want a sisal area rug for more comfort. I know that any rug will impede the heat transfer.

I was wondering if some sort of thin insulating material was to be put down onto the concrete then I guess a laminate floating floor, would this be enough to get the cold "feel" out of the floor? If not then I'd like to understand the costs involved in going the radiant way?

What method, cable or matt, of electric radiant would be recommended?
What are the materials, labor AND average electric usage costs be (Northeast)?
How many hours of labor to install?
Would the control allow programmable operation versus just on off?

Thanks for your help and let me know if I should be posting this else where on the forum. ]]> Flooring TonyG7 http://www.contractortalk.com/f10/electric-radiant-slab-68273/